Skip to content

Service

French Drains & Yard Drainage in Seattle

Standing water in a Seattle garden is almost never a mystery. The city sits on glacial till — a dense hardpan under a foot or two of topsoil — and takes 38 inches of rain a year with most of it arriving between October and March. Water goes down until it hits the till, then stops. Once the topsoil above is saturated, there is nowhere left for the next inch of rain to go, so it sits on the surface. Nothing about that gets better with reseeding, aeration or topsoil. It gets better when the water is given a route out, which is what a properly cut and routed French drain does.

Typical range
$10–$25 per linear foot
Best season
Genuinely better in the wet months.
Payment
No deposit — you pay when the project is finished

Excavator regrading a yard for drainage before landscape construction

What is included

Stop the standing water.

A yard that drains through a Seattle winter instead of holding it.

  • French drains

    A trench, perforated pipe, clean free-draining rock and a geotextile wrap, cut to a consistent fall and routed somewhere the water can actually go.

  • Catch basins

    For the low point that collects everything. Sized and sited so they capture surface water before it reaches the house rather than after.

  • Regrading

    Sometimes the answer is not a pipe. Reshaping the ground so it falls away from the building solves a surprising number of problems more cheaply than a drain would.

  • Downspout tie-ins

    Roof water discharged into the garden is a huge volume arriving in one spot. Tying downspouts into a proper run gets it away instead of letting it undermine a wall or a patio.

  • Retaining wall drainage

    The drainage behind a wall is the wall. Where an existing wall has none, retrofitting it is often what stops it moving.

Why people call us

The problems this actually fixes.

  • Standing water on the lawn for days after rain stops
  • A lawn that is spongy underfoot from November to March
  • Water pooling against the foundation or running into a crawlspace
  • A retaining wall leaning or bulging a little more each winter
  • Moss taking over grass that never gets a chance to dry
  • A patio or driveway that sheds water back toward the house
  • A neighbour's runoff arriving on your ground

How we build it

5 stages, and the visible one is last.

Excavator regrading a yard for drainage before landscape construction

Seasonality. Genuinely better in the wet months. Between October and March we can see exactly where water collects and which way it runs, which is information a dry August site visit simply does not give you.

  1. 01

    Find out where the water actually comes from

    Roof, surface runoff, a neighbouring property's grade, or groundwater sitting on the till. These need different answers and guessing wastes the whole job.

  2. 02

    Establish where it can discharge to

    A drain needs somewhere legal and physical to go — daylight at a lower point, or an approved connection. A drain that terminates in a hole is a soakaway on ground that does not soak.

  3. 03

    Cut the trench to a consistent fall

    Continuous fall along the whole run. A trench that dips holds water and silts up, which is the most common reason a retrofit drain stops working.

  4. 04

    Lay pipe, rock and geotextile

    Perforated pipe bedded in clean washed rock, wrapped in geotextile so the surrounding soil cannot migrate in and clog the void.

  5. 05

    Reinstate the surface

    Turf, planting or hard surface put back so the finished job does not read as a scar across the garden.

What it costs

$10–$25 per linear foot

Most residential drainage projects land between $1,000 and $4,000. The same hundred-foot job gets quoted anywhere from $5,000 to $14,000 across this market, which is why we itemise what is actually being installed rather than giving you a number.

That is a market range, not a quote. Your price is fixed in writing after we have seen the site, and it does not move once agreed.

  • No down payment

    No deposit is required to start. Payment comes after the work is finished — not before.

  • Fixed price, agreed up front

    A fixed, accurate price is guaranteed before the job starts. We do not quote low and raise it mid-project.

  • 0% interest for up to 6 months

    A 0% interest payment plan is available for up to 6 months.

  • Warranty on hardscaping

    Hardscaping work carries a warranty. Vegetation is excluded.

Drainage we have built

12 of ours, photographed on site.

In their words

What customers said about our drainage work

Real Google reviews, unedited. We publish the ones that name the work rather than a generic five stars.

Egle Garcia

April 2014

We needed a solution with the sliding soil in our backyard (Seattle location). Eric & Alex suggested building a retaining wall and we are very satisfied with the solution and the results.
Retaining wall for slipping soil — Seattle

Before you call

Drainage questions we get asked.

Something not answered here? Call (425) 533-9734 and ask — we would rather talk it through than have you guess.

What is a French drain and when do I actually need one?

A French drain is a trench cut to a consistent fall, containing a perforated pipe surrounded by clean free-draining rock and wrapped in geotextile, which collects water from the surrounding soil and carries it somewhere else. You need one when water has no route out — standing water that persists for days after rain, a lawn that stays spongy all winter, or water collecting against the house. You do not need one if the problem is a single low spot that regrading would fix, or if the issue is roof water that a downspout tie-in would solve for a fraction of the cost. We will tell you when the cheaper answer is the right one.

Where does the water actually go at the end of the drain?

This is the question that separates a drain that works from one that fails in two years, and it is the first thing we establish. The good outcome is daylight — a discharge point lower than the drain where water can run out freely, which on a sloped Seattle lot is often achievable. Otherwise it is a connection to an approved drainage system. What does not work here is a soakaway pit: the whole reason the garden floods is that the ground will not absorb water, so digging a hole and filling it with rock just relocates the puddle underground. Anyone proposing one on till has not thought it through.

Will a French drain fix water getting into my crawlspace or basement?

Often it is a large part of the answer, but it depends where the water is entering. Exterior drainage that intercepts surface and shallow groundwater before it reaches the foundation, combined with regrading so the ground falls away from the building and downspouts discharging well clear of it, resolves a lot of crawlspace water. What exterior work will not fix is water coming through a failed foundation or a hydrostatic problem below the drain line — that is a different trade and we will say so rather than sell you a drain that does not address it.

How long does a French drain last, and does it need maintenance?

A properly built one — clean rock, geotextile wrap, consistent fall, real discharge point — should run for decades with essentially no attention. The failures we get called to fix are nearly all construction faults rather than age: no geotextile, so soil migrated into the rock and silted the void; an inconsistent fall with dips that hold water; or pipe surrounded by fine material instead of washed rock. If there are catch basins in the system they want clearing of leaf litter once a year, which takes minutes.

Can drainage be done as part of a patio or wall project?

It should be, and it is cheaper that way. The machine is already on site, the ground is already open, and the drainage can be designed into the levels rather than retrofitted around them. Doing it later means excavating through work that was just finished. On most of our hardscape projects the drainage is not a separate line item people opt into — it is part of building something that will still be flat and standing in ten years.

Landscape lighting washing a retaining wall above a lit patio at dusk

Book a free drainage assessment.

We come out, look at the site properly, and put a fixed written price together. No deposit, and nothing changes once the price is agreed.

Usually done alongside

What tends to go with drainage.

Two-tier block retaining wall with stone steps and new planting on a sloped side yard

Retaining Walls & Rockeries

Turn an unusable bank into flat, usable ground.

  • Interlocking block
  • Poured concrete
  • Natural rock & rockeries

$5–$45 per square foot of wall face

Hand-fitted natural flagstone patio in a fenced back garden

Paver Patios

A patio you can actually use nine months of the year.

  • Pavers
  • Poured concrete
  • Flagstone

$20–$50 per square foot installed

Large-format concrete pavers laid tight into a modern garden with a clean restrained edge

Paver Installation

Pavers set on a base built for this ground and this rainfall.

  • Base excavation & compaction
  • Concrete, clay & stone units
  • Permeable systems

$18–$40 per square foot installed

Charcoal block retaining wall under construction with capping units, wheelbarrows and stacked material on site

Gravel, Rock & Site Preparation

Ground that is ready to build on, properly.

  • Excavation & grading
  • Decorative gravel
  • Boulder placement

$1,800–$15,000 depending on volume and access

All 17 services →

Free estimate

Tell us about the project.

Three minutes on the form. We reply during office hours — Monday – Friday, 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM.

Or call (425) 533-9734

Takes under a minute. No deposit is required to book work — you pay when the project is finished. Prefer to talk? Call (425) 533-9734

Call NowFree Estimate