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Irrigation & Sprinkler Systems in Seattle

Seattle's rainfall figure is one of the most misleading numbers in American gardening. We take 38 inches a year and it lands almost entirely between October and March. July and August are genuinely dry — often for weeks at a time — and they are exactly when new planting, lawns and containers are under the most stress. That mismatch is why irrigation matters here despite the reputation, and why the systems that work are zoned rather than uniform. A lawn, a bed of established shrubs and a row of containers want completely different amounts of water on completely different schedules. One controller running everything for twenty minutes waters all three badly.

Typical range
$3,000–$9,000 for a typical residential system
Best season
Install in spring, ideally March to May, so the system is running before it is needed and any coverage problems show up in June rather than during a hot week in August.
Payment
No deposit — you pay when the project is finished

Pop-up sprinkler head watering a lawn, shown beside a landscape bed lit at night

What is included

Seattle summers are drier than the reputation.

Planting that survives August without you standing there with a hose.

  • Zoned sprinkler systems

    Lawn and turf areas on their own zones, sized to the head spacing and the pressure available, so coverage is even rather than patchy with dry corners.

  • Drip irrigation to beds

    Water delivered at the root rather than thrown into the air. Less evaporation, no wet foliage, and dramatically less waste on planted areas — the change customers notice most.

  • Controllers and scheduling

    Programmable control with seasonal adjustment, and weather-responsive options that skip a cycle when it has rained, which in this climate is not a gimmick.

  • Retrofit and rezoning

    Most of our irrigation work is fixing an existing system rather than installing a new one — usually rezoning so beds and lawn stop sharing a schedule.

  • Startup and winterisation

    Spring commissioning and autumn blow-out. A system left charged through a Seattle cold snap is a repair bill waiting for spring.

Why people call us

The problems this actually fixes.

  • New planting that dies in its first August despite regular hand watering
  • A lawn with permanent dry patches where sprinkler coverage does not overlap
  • Beds and lawn on one zone, so one is drowned and the other is dry
  • A system installed with the house that has not been adjusted since
  • Water bills that spike every summer for a garden that still looks stressed
  • Broken heads mown off years ago and never replaced
  • A system nobody winterised, discovered leaking in March

How we build it

5 stages, and the visible one is last.

Pop-up sprinkler head watering a lawn, shown beside a landscape bed lit at night

Seasonality. Install in spring, ideally March to May, so the system is running before it is needed and any coverage problems show up in June rather than during a hot week in August. Winterisation belongs in October before the first hard freeze. New planting installed in autumn benefits from irrigation being in place first — it is much easier to trench before planting than around it.

  1. 01

    Measure pressure and flow

    Everything downstream depends on this. A design drawn without knowing what the supply actually delivers produces zones that cannot run properly, and it is the most common fault in existing systems.

  2. 02

    Zone by need, not by geography

    Lawn, beds, containers and any shaded area separated, because they want different volumes and different frequencies. This is where most retrofits earn their money.

  3. 03

    Set heads and drip lines out

    Sprinkler spacing calculated for head-to-head coverage; drip laid to the planting rather than in a grid that ignores where the roots are.

  4. 04

    Trench, sleeve and connect

    Lines trenched to depth and sleeved under any hard surface. Where a patio or drive is being built at the same time, the sleeves go in then — it costs almost nothing and saves a great deal later.

  5. 05

    Programme and hand over

    Zones timed, seasonal schedule set, and you shown how to adjust it. A system nobody knows how to change gets left on the install setting for a decade.

What it costs

$3,000–$9,000 for a typical residential system

Zone count is the driver, not lot size — each zone carries valve, wiring, piping and heads. Drip to beds is cheaper per area covered than lawn sprinklers. Retrofits and rezoning of an existing system are usually a fraction of a new install, and are the more common recommendation where the pipework in the ground is sound.

That is a market range, not a quote. Your price is fixed in writing after we have seen the site, and it does not move once agreed.

  • No down payment

    No deposit is required to start. Payment comes after the work is finished — not before.

  • Fixed price, agreed up front

    A fixed, accurate price is guaranteed before the job starts. We do not quote low and raise it mid-project.

  • 0% interest for up to 6 months

    A 0% interest payment plan is available for up to 6 months.

  • Warranty on hardscaping

    Hardscaping work carries a warranty. Vegetation is excluded.

In their words

What customers said about our irrigation work

Real Google reviews, unedited. We publish the ones that name the work rather than a generic five stars.

Carly Rintisch

March 2026

We hired Aden Landscaping as part of our larger front yard remodel, and they redesigned our sprinkler system and added a drip irrigation system. It made a huge difference.
Irrigation & drip system

kamil Sogut

March 2025

Aden Landscaping team did a great job, they installed new Sprinkler system. Crew is professional they finished in short time.
Sprinkler system

Before you call

Irrigation questions we get asked.

Something not answered here? Call (425) 533-9734 and ask — we would rather talk it through than have you guess.

Does a Seattle garden really need irrigation?

For established, well-chosen planting, often not. For anything in its first two or three years, for lawns, and for containers, the answer is usually yes — and the reason is the shape of our rainfall rather than its total. Nearly all of the 38 inches falls between October and March, and July and August routinely go weeks without meaningful rain. That dry window lands precisely when plants are transpiring hardest and when new roots have not reached far enough to find moisture. A garden that looks effortless in May is the one that had water in August.

Sprinklers or drip irrigation?

Both, on separate zones, in most gardens. Sprinklers are the right tool for lawns and turf, where you need even coverage across an open area, and they need head-to-head spacing to avoid the dry patches that plague badly designed systems. Drip is the right tool for everything planted, because it puts water at the root, loses almost nothing to evaporation, and keeps foliage dry — which matters more in a damp climate than a dry one, since wet leaves overnight is how a lot of fungal problems start here. The mistake we most often correct is a single system doing both jobs on one schedule.

Do I need to worry about water restrictions?

Not usually in a normal year, but conservation is genuinely part of the picture and worth designing for. Seattle Public Utilities does not impose routine summer restrictions in a typical year, though voluntary curtailment is common in a dry August and regional conservation messaging runs through the Saving Water Partnership. Several Eastside cities — Bellevue, Redmond, Issaquah, Sammamish and Kirkland among them — buy their supply through the Cascade Water Alliance, and their conservation programmes and rate structures differ. Rather than quote a programme that may change, we design for lower consumption: correct zoning, drip on beds and weather-responsive control.

Is winterisation actually necessary in Seattle?

Yes, and skipping it is a gamble people lose roughly one winter in three. Our winters are mild on average, which is exactly what makes them dangerous — systems get left charged because it rarely freezes hard, and then a cold snap arrives, water expands in a backflow device or an above-ground component, and something cracks. The damage is not discovered until spring startup, by which point it may have been leaking underground for weeks. Blowing the lines out with compressed air in October is an inexpensive annual job and it is the difference between a system that lasts twenty years and one that needs repairs every other spring.

Landscape lighting washing a retaining wall above a lit patio at dusk

Get an irrigation quote.

We come out, look at the site properly, and put a fixed written price together. No deposit, and nothing changes once the price is agreed.

Usually done alongside

What tends to go with irrigation.

Newly completed landscape with a grey paver patio, charcoal edging walls, turf lawn and freshly planted boxwood beds

Landscape Design & Installation

A yard designed as one thing, not six jobs stitched together.

  • Custom design plans
  • Planting & beds
  • Full yard renovation

$8,000–$70,000 for a full design and installation

Retaining wall washed with warm landscape lighting at night above a lit patio and dining set

Landscape Lighting

Use and see the garden through eight months of dark evenings.

  • Path & step lighting
  • Uplighting & accent
  • Wall washing

$2,500–$9,000 for a typical residential system

Rectangular artificial turf lawn edged with a grey border course beside a brick paver patio and cedar fence

Artificial Turf

A lawn that survives a Seattle winter and a dog at the same time.

  • Pet-rated turf
  • Play areas
  • Shaded yards

$13–$24 per square foot installed

Excavator regrading a yard for drainage before landscape construction

Drainage & French Drains

A yard that drains through a Seattle winter instead of holding it.

  • French drains
  • Catch basins
  • Regrading for runoff

$10–$25 per linear foot

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Free estimate

Tell us about the project.

Three minutes on the form. We reply during office hours — Monday – Friday, 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM.

Or call (425) 533-9734

Takes under a minute. No deposit is required to book work — you pay when the project is finished. Prefer to talk? Call (425) 533-9734

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