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Landscape Lighting Installation in Seattle

Lighting is the highest-return thing you can add to a Seattle garden and the most commonly skipped. The reason is arithmetic: at this latitude it is dark before five o'clock for a third of the year, so an unlit garden simply stops existing for the entire season people spend most time indoors looking at it. A lit one becomes a view from every window instead of a black rectangle. The second reason is safety — steps, level changes and a wet mossy path are the three things people actually hurt themselves on, and all three are cheap to light. Done well it is not a row of solar spikes down a path. It is a handful of deliberately placed fixtures, most of which you should never see directly.

Typical range
$2,500–$9,000 for a typical residential system
Best season
Best installed alongside hardscape work in the spring and summer, when cable can be sleeved under surfaces before they go down.
Payment
No deposit — you pay when the project is finished

Retaining wall washed with warm landscape lighting at night above a lit patio and dining set

What is included

The garden exists after 4pm too.

Use and see the garden through eight months of dark evenings.

  • Path and step lighting

    Low fixtures that light the ground rather than your eyes, and step lights recessed into risers or walls. This is the safety layer and it comes first.

  • Uplighting and accent

    A well-placed uplight on a mature fir or a specimen maple does more for a garden after dark than a dozen path lights. Aimed to graze the trunk and canopy rather than flood it.

  • Wall washing

    Grazing light across a stone or block retaining wall picks up the texture and turns a structural element into the backdrop of the garden.

  • Low-voltage systems

    12V LED throughout — safe to work around, cheap to run, and cable that does not need the burial depth or the electrician that line voltage does.

  • All-weather specification

    Fixtures and connections rated for constant moisture, because Seattle is not a climate where a marginal fitting survives its second winter.

Why people call us

The problems this actually fixes.

  • A garden that is a black rectangle from every window between October and March
  • Steps or a level change nobody can see on a wet evening
  • A solar-light system that fails in the exact months you need it
  • One glaring floodlight that lights the neighbours and blinds you
  • A retaining wall or specimen tree that cost thousands and disappears at dusk
  • A front path visitors cannot follow after dark

How we build it

5 stages, and the visible one is last.

Retaining wall washed with warm landscape lighting at night above a lit patio and dining set

Seasonality. Best installed alongside hardscape work in the spring and summer, when cable can be sleeved under surfaces before they go down. As a standalone job it is genuinely well suited to autumn — you are buying it for the dark months, and the aiming visit works properly in October in a way it does not in June.

  1. 01

    Look at it after dark

    Where the garden is seen from inside, what is worth lighting, and where the genuine trip hazards are. A daylight-only design misses all three.

  2. 02

    Design in layers

    Safety first — steps and level changes. Then feature lighting on trees and walls. Then, only if it is needed, general ambient. Most gardens are over-lit and under-designed.

  3. 03

    Size the transformer and the runs

    Voltage drop over a long cable run is what makes the far end of a system dimmer than the near end. It is arithmetic done before installation, not a fault discovered afterwards.

  4. 04

    Trench and run cable

    Cable buried on planned routes, ideally sleeved under any hard surface. Doing this during a hardscape build costs almost nothing; retrofitting it means lifting paving.

  5. 05

    Aim it at night

    The last visit is after dark, adjusting beam angles and dimming levels with the system running. Fixtures aimed in daylight are almost always wrong.

What it costs

$2,500–$9,000 for a typical residential system

Systems are priced by fixture count, cable run and transformer capacity rather than by area. A focused install — steps, a path and two or three feature lights — sits at the lower end. Whole-property lighting with long runs, multiple zones and wall washing sits at the upper end. Adding sleeves and conduit during a hardscape build costs very little; retrofitting the same cable under a finished patio costs a great deal.

That is a market range, not a quote. Your price is fixed in writing after we have seen the site, and it does not move once agreed.

  • No down payment

    No deposit is required to start. Payment comes after the work is finished — not before.

  • Fixed price, agreed up front

    A fixed, accurate price is guaranteed before the job starts. We do not quote low and raise it mid-project.

  • 0% interest for up to 6 months

    A 0% interest payment plan is available for up to 6 months.

  • Warranty on hardscaping

    Hardscaping work carries a warranty. Vegetation is excluded.

Lighting we have built

12 of ours, photographed on site.

Before you call

Lighting questions we get asked.

Something not answered here? Call (425) 533-9734 and ask — we would rather talk it through than have you guess.

Is low-voltage lighting bright enough for a Seattle garden?

Comfortably, and the instinct that it will not be is the most common mistake people bring to a lighting design. Eyes adapt to darkness, so the amount of light needed to make a path safe or a tree striking after dark is far less than daytime intuition suggests. The usual failure is the opposite of dimness: too much output aimed badly, which flattens the garden, throws glare into your own windows and irritates neighbours. A good system uses modest fixtures placed precisely, with contrast doing the work. If anything, we spend more of the design conversation talking people down in brightness than up.

Will the fixtures survive constant rain and moss?

Properly specified ones will, and this is a climate that punishes the alternative quickly. The things that kill landscape lighting here are water tracking into a fixture body, corrosion at cable connections, and cheap gaskets that harden after two winters. We use fittings rated for continuous wet conditions and make connections with waterproof joints rather than the twist-and-tape approach that fails in year two. The other Seattle-specific factor is organic growth — leaf litter, moss and bark mulch creeping over ground-level fixtures — so we set fixtures slightly proud of the finished level and mention it as an annual five-minute job.

How much does landscape lighting cost to run?

Very little, which surprises people who remember halogen systems. LED fixtures typically draw a few watts each, so a whole garden system running four or five hours a night on a timer costs a small fraction of what a single outdoor floodlight used to. That changes the design conversation — the constraint is not the running cost but the transformer capacity and the cable runs, both of which are set at install. It also makes zoning worth doing: separate circuits for the path lighting you want on every evening and the feature lighting you might only run when you are using the space.

Can lighting be added to a garden that is already finished?

Yes, and most of our lighting work is retrofit. The honest caveat is cost: the expensive part of a retrofit is not the fixtures, it is getting cable from the transformer to where the light needs to be. In planted beds that is straightforward. Under an existing patio, driveway or path it means either lifting a section or finding a longer route around, and that is where a retrofit budget goes. It is the single strongest argument for putting empty conduit in during any hardscape build even if lighting is years away — sleeves cost almost nothing while the ground is open.

Landscape lighting washing a retaining wall above a lit patio at dusk

Get a lighting design.

We come out, look at the site properly, and put a fixed written price together. No deposit, and nothing changes once the price is agreed.

Usually done alongside

What tends to go with lighting.

Hand-fitted natural flagstone patio in a fenced back garden

Paver Patios

A patio you can actually use nine months of the year.

  • Pavers
  • Poured concrete
  • Flagstone

$20–$50 per square foot installed

Newly completed landscape with a grey paver patio, charcoal edging walls, turf lawn and freshly planted boxwood beds

Landscape Design & Installation

A yard designed as one thing, not six jobs stitched together.

  • Custom design plans
  • Planting & beds
  • Full yard renovation

$8,000–$70,000 for a full design and installation

Light grey paver walkway with a charcoal border course under installation, edge restraint pinned along both sides

Pathways & Walkways

Get from the street to the door, and around the house, without mud.

  • Paver walkways
  • Flagstone paths
  • Stepping stones

$18–$45 per square foot installed

Two-tier block retaining wall with stone steps and new planting on a sloped side yard

Retaining Walls & Rockeries

Turn an unusable bank into flat, usable ground.

  • Interlocking block
  • Poured concrete
  • Natural rock & rockeries

$5–$45 per square foot of wall face

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Tell us about the project.

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Or call (425) 533-9734

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