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Fences, Pergolas & Outdoor Structures in Seattle

Structures are what turn a garden into a place you use rather than one you look at. A pergola over a patio is the difference between a surface that works three months a year and one that works eight, because it is not heat we need shelter from here — it is drizzle. A fence at the right height and the right density is what makes a small city garden feel like a room instead of a goldfish bowl. And both live in a climate that is relentlessly hard on timber: constant moisture, ground contact, and long periods where nothing dries out. Which is why most of the decisions on these jobs are about posts, fixings and detailing rather than about the visible frame.

Typical range
$45–$120 per linear foot for fencing; $6,000–$25,000 for a pergola or gazebo
Best season
Buildable year-round, and one of the few things we can do productively in a wet February when the ground is too saturated for excavation.
Payment
No deposit — you pay when the project is finished

Modern aluminium pergola over an outdoor lounge with a fire table beside an artificial turf lawn

What is included

Fences, pergolas, gazebos and sheds.

Privacy, shelter and shade — built to stand up to the weather.

  • Fencing

    Cedar in board, horizontal slat, lattice-topped and privacy formats. Post setting and post protection are what decide whether a fence lasts eight years or twenty-five in this climate.

  • Pergolas

    Timber or powder-coated aluminium, freestanding or attached. In Seattle the useful ones are the covered versions, because shelter from rain buys far more usable days than shade from sun.

  • Gazebos and covered structures

    A roofed structure that makes a corner of the garden usable through the winter. Foundation and drainage under it are designed as part of the build.

  • Sheds and storage

    Built rather than flat-packed, set on a proper base, with a floor clear of standing ground water so the contents are still dry in February.

  • Arbors, screens and gates

    Smaller structural pieces that mark a route or hide a bin store. Usually the cheapest change that makes a garden read as designed.

Why people call us

The problems this actually fixes.

  • A fence leaning because the posts rotted at ground level
  • A patio that goes unused because there is no shelter from drizzle
  • A small garden overlooked from three sides
  • A shed with a rotting floor because it sits on bare ground
  • A boundary fence blown down in the first serious winter storm
  • A hot south-facing terrace with no shade at any time of day

How we build it

5 stages, and the visible one is last.

Modern aluminium pergola over an outdoor lounge with a fire table beside an artificial turf lawn

Seasonality. Buildable year-round, and one of the few things we can do productively in a wet February when the ground is too saturated for excavation. Post setting is the one weather-sensitive stage. Timber structures are best stained in a dry spell, so a summer or early autumn finish gives a better result than a January one.

  1. 01

    Check the boundary and the rules

    Where the line actually runs, what height is permitted, and — in HOA neighbourhoods, which is much of the Eastside — what the association allows. Cheaper to establish before the posts go in.

  2. 02

    Set the foundations properly

    Post depth and setting method chosen for the ground and the load. This is the single point of failure on almost every fence and pergola we get called to replace.

  3. 03

    Frame square and level

    On a sloping Seattle lot a fence either steps down in level bays or rakes with the ground, and the choice changes the look substantially. We agree it before building.

  4. 04

    Detail for water

    End grain sealed, no timber sitting in standing water, gaps that let air move through. Rot in this climate starts at the details, not in the middle of a board.

  5. 05

    Finish and clear

    Stain or seal where specified, hardware fitted and adjusted, off-cuts and old material removed rather than stacked behind the shed.

What it costs

$45–$120 per linear foot for fencing; $6,000–$25,000 for a pergola or gazebo

Fence pricing moves with height, style and how much the ground slopes — a raking fence on a hillside lot takes far more setting out than a level run. Structures vary most on whether they are covered: an open pergola is a frame, a roofed one is a small building with a drainage requirement, and the price reflects that.

That is a market range, not a quote. Your price is fixed in writing after we have seen the site, and it does not move once agreed.

  • No down payment

    No deposit is required to start. Payment comes after the work is finished — not before.

  • Fixed price, agreed up front

    A fixed, accurate price is guaranteed before the job starts. We do not quote low and raise it mid-project.

  • 0% interest for up to 6 months

    A 0% interest payment plan is available for up to 6 months.

  • Warranty on hardscaping

    Hardscaping work carries a warranty. Vegetation is excluded.

Structures & Fences we have built

18 of ours, photographed on site.

Before you call

Structures & Fences questions we get asked.

Something not answered here? Call (425) 533-9734 and ask — we would rather talk it through than have you guess.

How tall can I build a fence in Seattle?

In Seattle, six feet is the general limit for a fence in a rear or side yard without a permit, with lower limits in front yard setbacks and additional restrictions where a fence would obstruct sight lines at a driveway or corner. Height is measured from existing grade, which matters on a sloped lot where the ground falls along the run. The rules differ in the Eastside cities and again in HOA neighbourhoods, where the association may specify style and material as well as height. We confirm the position for your specific address before quoting, because moving a completed fence is an expensive correction.

How long does a cedar fence last here, and what makes the difference?

A well-built cedar fence in this climate should give you twenty years or more; a poorly built one starts leaning at eight. The difference is almost entirely below ground. Posts fail first, at the point where they meet the soil, because that zone is permanently damp and gets the most oxygen — so post material, setting method and drainage around the base are what determine the lifespan. Above ground the details matter more than the timber grade: end grain sealed, boards not sitting in contact with the ground, and enough air movement that a wet fence dries between rainfalls. The boards are rarely what fails.

Is a pergola worth it in a climate like ours?

A covered one, very much so. An open-slat pergola is designed for sun, and Seattle has a limited amount of that — it will look good and buy you a modest amount of dappled shade in July. A pergola with a solid or louvred roof does something considerably more valuable here, which is make a patio usable in drizzle. That converts an outdoor room from a summer amenity into something you can use most of the year, and it is the single change that most reliably increases how often people actually use the garden they paid for. Where budget is tight we would rather cover a smaller area than leave a bigger one open.

Can you match or extend my neighbour's existing fence?

Usually, and it is worth doing where a shared boundary is involved. Matching an existing style and height keeps the run reading as one fence rather than two adjacent ones, and it avoids the awkward conversation later. What we would flag first is the condition of what you are matching into: tying new work into posts that are already failing means the new section inherits a problem in a few years. Where that is the case we will say so and price both options. Boundary fences also benefit from an agreed conversation with the neighbour before, rather than after, the posts go in.

Landscape lighting washing a retaining wall above a lit patio at dusk

Get a structure or fence quote.

We come out, look at the site properly, and put a fixed written price together. No deposit, and nothing changes once the price is agreed.

Usually done alongside

What tends to go with structures & fences.

Covered outdoor kitchen and warm-toned deck beside a grey slab patio and turf lawn in a Magnolia garden

Decks & Wooden Structures

A deck whose substructure outlives the boards on top of it.

  • Composite & cedar decking
  • Stairs & railings
  • Pergolas & covered structures

$35–$90 per square foot installed

Hand-fitted natural flagstone patio in a fenced back garden

Paver Patios

A patio you can actually use nine months of the year.

  • Pavers
  • Poured concrete
  • Flagstone

$20–$50 per square foot installed

Newly completed landscape with a grey paver patio, charcoal edging walls, turf lawn and freshly planted boxwood beds

Landscape Design & Installation

A yard designed as one thing, not six jobs stitched together.

  • Custom design plans
  • Planting & beds
  • Full yard renovation

$8,000–$70,000 for a full design and installation

Natural stone veneer retaining wall under construction with tools and materials on site

Brick & Stone Masonry

Walls, columns, steps and veneers built to last generations.

  • Natural stone veneer
  • Brickwork
  • Columns & pillars

$45–$120 per square foot of finished face

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Free estimate

Tell us about the project.

Three minutes on the form. We reply during office hours — Monday – Friday, 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM.

Or call (425) 533-9734

Takes under a minute. No deposit is required to book work — you pay when the project is finished. Prefer to talk? Call (425) 533-9734

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