Skip to content

Service

Gravel, Rock & Site Preparation in Seattle

This is the least glamorous service we offer and the one that quietly determines whether anything built afterwards survives. Site preparation is excavation, grading, compaction and the import of the right material in the right depth — the work that happens before there is anything to photograph. It is also the stage most commonly compressed on a cheap quote, because nobody inspecting a finished patio can see how deep the base under it goes. On Seattle's glacial till the margin for cutting corners is smaller than in most markets: the subgrade will not drain, so the base has to do two jobs at once, and an undersized one fails within a couple of winters.

Typical range
$1,800–$15,000 depending on volume and access
Best season
Best March to October.
Payment
No deposit — you pay when the project is finished

Charcoal block retaining wall under construction with capping units, wheelbarrows and stacked material on site

What is included

The stage everything else stands on.

Ground that is ready to build on, properly.

  • Excavation and grading

    Machine work to cut a site to level and set falls. Our own excavators and operators, which matters on constrained lots where the machine choice decides whether the job is possible at all.

  • Structural base preparation

    Crushed rock placed and compacted in lifts to the depth the finished use requires — pedestrian, vehicle or structural are three different specifications.

  • Decorative gravel and rock

    Gravel surfaces, dry riverbeds and rock mulch, laid over a proper membrane and edge so they stay where they were put instead of migrating into the lawn.

  • Boulder placement

    Feature boulders and rock groupings set with a machine and seated into the ground rather than sitting on top of it, which is the difference between a landscape feature and a delivery.

  • Spoil removal and import

    Material out and material in. On a Seattle lot with no access this is frequently the single largest line in the job, and pricing it honestly up front avoids the mid-build conversation.

Why people call us

The problems this actually fixes.

  • A new-build lot handed over as compacted, unworkable graded dirt
  • A patio or drive that failed because the base under it was never adequate
  • A gravel area that has spread into the lawn and grown weeds through it
  • Spoil from an earlier project still heaped at the bottom of the garden
  • Ground too soft or too wet to build on without treatment
  • A site that needs clearing and levelling before anything can be designed
  • Boulders delivered and dropped rather than placed

How we build it

5 stages, and the visible one is last.

Charcoal block retaining wall under construction with capping units, wheelbarrows and stacked material on site

Seasonality. Best March to October. Excavation and compaction both suffer badly in saturated ground — wet material will not compact to specification, and machine work on soft ground damages more of the lot than the job itself. We do winter site prep where it is necessary, but the honest advice is that it takes longer and costs more, and where the schedule allows it is worth waiting.

  1. 01

    Establish access first

    What machine can physically reach the work area decides the method and the cost of everything else. On a tight city lot this is the first question, not a detail.

  2. 02

    Strip and excavate to depth

    Topsoil and unsuitable material off, cut to the level the build-up requires. Excavating to the right depth is what everything above depends on.

  3. 03

    Assess the subgrade

    If what is exposed is soft, wet or made ground, it gets addressed — usually with geotextile separation and a deeper base — rather than being built straight over.

  4. 04

    Place and compact in lifts

    Material placed in layers and compacted layer by layer. A base dumped in one go and rolled on top is not a compacted base, whatever it looks like.

  5. 05

    Set falls and check levels

    Grade checked against the plan before anything covers it, because a fall that is wrong is essentially uncorrectable once a surface is on it.

What it costs

$1,800–$15,000 depending on volume and access

Two variables dominate: how much material moves, and whether a machine can reach the work. The same cubic yardage costs several times more moved by barrow through a three-foot gate than by excavator off a driveway. Spoil disposal is charged by volume and is frequently underestimated in quotes that look cheap at first glance.

That is a market range, not a quote. Your price is fixed in writing after we have seen the site, and it does not move once agreed.

  • No down payment

    No deposit is required to start. Payment comes after the work is finished — not before.

  • Fixed price, agreed up front

    A fixed, accurate price is guaranteed before the job starts. We do not quote low and raise it mid-project.

  • 0% interest for up to 6 months

    A 0% interest payment plan is available for up to 6 months.

  • Warranty on hardscaping

    Hardscaping work carries a warranty. Vegetation is excluded.

Gravel & Site Prep we have built

6 of ours, photographed on site.

Before you call

Gravel & Site Prep questions we get asked.

Something not answered here? Call (425) 533-9734 and ask — we would rather talk it through than have you guess.

Why does base depth matter so much on Seattle soil?

Because the ground underneath will not help. In a well-drained sandy subsoil, a modest base works partly because water passing through the surface keeps going down and away. On glacial till it does not — it reaches the hardpan and stops, then moves sideways through whatever base was laid. That means the base is doing two jobs here: spreading load and providing the drainage path the subgrade cannot. Undersize it and water sits in it, fines migrate, voids form and the surface above starts to move. This is the single most common reason we are called to rebuild someone else's patio.

What does compaction in lifts actually mean, and does it matter?

It means placing base material in shallow layers, usually a few inches at a time, and compacting each layer before adding the next. It matters because a compactor only transmits meaningful force a limited depth into loose material — run one over twelve inches of freshly tipped rock and you get a firm crust with uncompacted material underneath it. That looks identical on the day and settles over the following two years. Lifts are slower and use more machine time, and they are the reason two quotes for the same patio can differ substantially while describing the same finished surface.

Can you work on a lot where a machine cannot get to the back garden?

Yes, and a large share of our Seattle work is exactly that. The methods are hand excavation, barrowing through the house with floor protection, conveyor, or in a few cases craning material over the roof. What changes is not whether it can be done but what it costs and how long it takes — a job that is two days with an excavator on the drive can be four or five by hand. We walk the access route before quoting and price it explicitly, which sometimes makes our figure look higher than a quote from someone who has not yet worked out how the material is getting in.

What happens to the material you dig out?

It leaves in our trucks and goes to appropriate disposal or recycling depending on what it is. Clean excavated soil and clean broken concrete have different routes, and material with contamination or debris in it has another again. It is worth knowing that spoil volume is always greater than the hole it came out of — excavated ground bulks up considerably once it is loose — which is why disposal is routinely underestimated. Where the site can genuinely use it, regrading spoil on your own lot is cheaper than hauling it, and we will suggest that when it is a real option rather than a way of leaving a problem behind.

Landscape lighting washing a retaining wall above a lit patio at dusk

Get a site preparation quote.

We come out, look at the site properly, and put a fixed written price together. No deposit, and nothing changes once the price is agreed.

Usually done alongside

What tends to go with gravel & site prep.

Excavator regrading a yard for drainage before landscape construction

Drainage & French Drains

A yard that drains through a Seattle winter instead of holding it.

  • French drains
  • Catch basins
  • Regrading for runoff

$10–$25 per linear foot

Two-tier block retaining wall with stone steps and new planting on a sloped side yard

Retaining Walls & Rockeries

Turn an unusable bank into flat, usable ground.

  • Interlocking block
  • Poured concrete
  • Natural rock & rockeries

$5–$45 per square foot of wall face

Wide paver driveway and turning apron in front of a garage on a mature Seattle-area lot

Driveway Paving

A driveway that carries the weight and sheds the water.

  • Paver driveways
  • Poured concrete
  • Asphalt

$12–$32 per square foot installed

Hand-fitted natural flagstone patio in a fenced back garden

Paver Patios

A patio you can actually use nine months of the year.

  • Pavers
  • Poured concrete
  • Flagstone

$20–$50 per square foot installed

All 17 services →

Free estimate

Tell us about the project.

Three minutes on the form. We reply during office hours — Monday – Friday, 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM.

Or call (425) 533-9734

Takes under a minute. No deposit is required to book work — you pay when the project is finished. Prefer to talk? Call (425) 533-9734

Call NowFree Estimate